Dimmable Electronic Transformers On Trac Light

Hi,



I need some help connecting a programmable electronic timer switch to an electronic door lock.  My goal is for the door to only unlock during a set period of time (when the timer is in the "on" position).



I have found two locks that I think may work, I just have no idea what wires to connect to what.



I attached three pictures.  Two of them are of the electronic timer (two different versions), and one is of the locking mechanism. 



Any help is greatly appreciated.
      

Ones anyone have any ideas on how to override the electronic eye system on a craftsman garage door opener. I want to use one for a trolley to access the back of my loft. Have no way of setting it up with the eyes and I also don't have an extra set of eyes
      

So I have an outlet in my living room which has recently stopped working.  I checked it with the voltmeter and it shows 90V output instead of the 120V AC which it should be normally.  The fuse that this is on is fine.  I also disconnected the plug behind the covers and tested at the wires themselves and it's still 90V.  So the problem is not at the outlet side but either in the wall or somewhere else?



Is there a way to debug this or is this even a more common problem?



Thanks!
      

good morning and thank you in advance for your help! i am installing trex LED deck lights in my deck. trex clams that thier 60watt transformer is the only transformer that can be used with thier lights. i'm guessing because they want me to spend $160 on thier transformer. actually i would by it if they sold it without the timer (i just don't need it). i see Dekor makes a 60 watt, 5 amp transformer that looks just like the TREX one. anyone know if the trex LED lights and transformer are made by DEKOR and re-named? any thoughts on other transformers that will work with trex led deck lights?



thank you,



Bill
      

I'm trying to fix a problem with a track light installment over the a bar I've just put in. I've done it before. never had issues. but this particular problem is driving me nuts. It just defies logic.  The electrician who actually installed the associated dimmer switches with this dining room area was called as it seems it may be a flaw with his wiring, but he's blown us off and I have to try and solve this myself.



This is how it's all set up. I've been rehabbing our home from top to bottom, and converted our old kitchen into a dining area. Within this dining area are four sets of lights, all controlled from one box containing four dimmer switches. I set up all the new wiring and installation of the lights in the ceiling, and we paid an electrician to come in, check everything out, set up the multiple switches, and connect it all to the board. It's all new copper wiring from beginning to end, as I didn't want to connect or splice in to the old aluminum wiring that was in place. All the new wiring and lights are on a dedicated 15 amp breaker. Three of the sets of lights were set up to be available from the day the electrician came around. The fourth, for the track light over the bar, was left hanging from the ceiling capped off and with the switch off, as I still had work to do installing an overhead wine rack, under which the track was going to be set.



Two days ago I finally got around to putting the track up, but after setting it in place and connecting the power up the lights wouldn't work. I took the lights out to our kitchen, where I installed another track light system some time ago, plugged one of the lights in, and it worked just fine. I then went back to the bar area and used a spare track, then a spare connector, to see if I could isolate the fault, yet neither of the items provided a solution. Now here's the weird bit - every time I tried checking the system out, I'd get 120 volts showing from the wiring and from the track when I'd test with the multimeter. But the second I'd put a light into the track, the multimeter would drop to zero on the voltage reading on either the wiring or the track. Take the light fixture back out, and the voltage would pop back up. Inserting the light was thus completing some kind of odd loop. It wasn't just one light - I double checked by grabbing working lights from the kitchen track and inserting them into the other track - the same problem would pop up. Finally, having come to the conclusion that there was nothing wrong with the track at all, I took the whole assembly over to a nearby wall outlet, used some spare electric cable to connect up to the appropriate slots - presto, the light came on! I even double checked all this by grabbing another light fixture destined for our bathroom, and tried connecting it to the wiring over the bar. Nothing. Yet as with the track light, the minute I took it over to the wall outlet and connected it, the light worked.



So everything logically points to the fact it has to be something to do with this individual circuit, right, because a) the light fixtures work when plugged into another circuit and b) the other three dimmers and lights hooked up in the same box work fine and draw power from the same wire cable/breaker combination. The only things left that I can think of is that the electrician has either wired the dimmer switch up incorrectly or that there's some kind of flaw inside the switch itself. Does this make sense?



A friend also told me to double-check to make sure that the black wire feeding power to the light was indeed the hot wire, and it is.  If I touch it with the black test lead from the multimeter and put the red one to the neutral I show 120 volts. If I keep the black test lead on the black wire and put the red test lead to the ground - I also show 120 volts.



A final point. I know I'm not overloading the circuit - not even close. With all four dimmers maxed and every light on - including the test light on the track - I'd only be drawing 8 amps on a 15 amp breaker, besides which I'm only using one set of lights while I'm working on this problem anyway. This is a dedicated circuit, so there's no additional power being drawn away by something else.



So how am I getting 120 volts from this wiring, according to my multimeter, yet it won't light up ANYTHING and keeps giving off the indication that some kind of loop or short is being created every time I actually plug a light into the track? It's got me totally stumped.



Anyone have any ideas?
      

hi guys,



Im a 1st year apprentice sparks so pretty inexperienced! i have a job on during the week to wire a bathroom extractor fan in for my friend. He wants it to come on separately from the bathroom light.



Theres a 2 gang switch outside  the bathroom, one for landing lights other for bathroom. So im thinking of replacing this with a 3 gang switch for the fan.



Im gonna take permanent feed from one of the two other switches ie(bathroom or landing) to the fan switch 'common' to power it, then also take a permanent feed for the fan from the 'common' side of this new switch as its a timer fan.



Then switch feed from L1 on new switch to fan. And finally neutral from bathroom light fitting to fan. I know that these 3 cables going to fan have to be isolated at another switch before going to fan!



Am I on the right track. Thanks in advance.
      

Hi, I have a fluorescent light I'd like to remove and add a tracklight.



Luckily it's in the basement with an unfinished ceiling.



here's the circuit map as is now:



1. breaker to fluorescent light.... connections inside

2. fluorescent light to switch at the top of the stairs

3. switch to the light in the stairwell. This terminates the circuit.



The wiring is all 14/2



I'd like to replace the the fluorescent light with a track light, but I'm not sure how to continue the circuit to the switch in the stairwell.



Is it safe to...



1. bring the cable from the breaker to the junction box.

2. connect the black wire with the black wire on the light AND the black wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette.

3. connect the white wire with the white wire on the light AND the white wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette

4. connecting a 6 inch bare 14 gauge wire to the box ground screw, then using a marette, connecting it with the ground wire from the cable entering the box as well as the one leaving and also the ground wire from the light.



Will this work and is it safe?
      

This is kind of a complicated question, but I  think I have figured out how to do it right.  I wanted to run it by some folks here before going to the city code enforcer.  See the attached diagrams for details.



I  am planning a fairly elaborate lighting scheme for my home theater  area, mostly because I plan for the theater automation to be a hobby for  me. (I'm an electrical engineer)

 

I want to have banks of lights that I could later choose to group  differently onto dimmer switches.  For example, I have six can lights.   Some people I have talked to think I should dim the front four together  and back two separately.  Some think I should dim the front two together  and back four separately.  Some say I should dim them all together. 



So I decided I'd run each group of two cans to a junction box, run  the switches to a junction box, and then wire the switches to the lights  in the junction box - then I could later change it if I decided it should work  differently.  In addition, this would keep the junction boxes the  dimmers were in free from extra wires, since I plan to buy nice dimmers  that are fairly deep and would take more space in the switch boxes.  And  if I find that using switches differently would make it more intuitive,  I can change which switch controls which lights easily after the fact.   This would also allow me later to possibly control the lights with an  automated system.

 

There are some track lights and rope lights, as well as a couple  receptacles that would all come back to the junction box where they'd be  connected to the switches/dimmers.



I am bringing in power from  two circuits to balance the lighting.  I plan to put some of the lights  on one circuit and some on the other.  The second circuit has some other  stuff on it already, so it has less load left over, so most stuff will  go on the first circuit.

 

Also to save on wiring and make running wire easier, I was planning  to use 14/3 wiring where possible.  Any given 14/3 wire would  always be connected to only one of the circuits (no shared neutrals).



The attached files show my exact plan for each circuit. Note they both  share the junction box in the upper right corner of the pictures, they  also share the switch banks.  This allows me to decide which switches  control which lights, as well as decide which lights will be powered on  which circuit to balance them properly.  Note that the track lights are  each 2 circuit track, that's why I'm running 14/3 to each.

   

See the attached files for circuit #1 and circuit #2



I am running 14/3 NM to the switches.  I was planning to have two  switches share one 14/3 cable.  I am also running 14/3 to each group of  two light groups that I want to control separately.



I've also attached a diagram from the perspective of the junction box.



I also attached an example circuit on how I plan to use the 14/3 wire.

   

Here are some other decisions I made:



- The junction box will  be PVC 8x8x4 (256 cu. in.)  All the wires coming into the box add up to  70 cu in. so the box should be plenty large.

- All the grounds from both circuits will be tied together

  - The neutrals for both circuits will always be kept completely separate (NO shared neutrals)

- No 14/3 wire will ever carry power from more than one circuit (this would violate the shared neutrals anyway)



Even  though this is kind of elaborate and for hobby, I want to be sure to do  it safely and up to code.  Does anyone see anything wrong with  my plan?

 

Thanks,



Daniel
      

I am replacing the fan in one of our guest bedrooms and thought it would also be a good time to replace the switch.  Currently there is one switch to turn the fan and light on/off. 



I'd like to put the fan and light on two separate switches.  It appears that 12/3 or 14/3 is already in place (white, black and red/pink wires in switch enclosure w/ bare copper for ground).  I'd also like to make the light dimmable and the fan speed adjustable from these switches.  Could anyone recommend a good switch(es) to accomplish this?
      

I am installing a new semi flush 200a meter/breaker panel. the neutral meter lug is bonded to the panel, and comes into the breaker side to a common bus. There is no ground bus bar

Q- do i need to install a separate ground bus for my circuit ground(s) and ground rod, and if so, do they need to be bonded together? or can i just use the common bus for all grounds and commons if there is adequate space?