Rough-in Checklist

I'm preparing for finally calling in for my rough in inspection and was hoping I could get a checklist or at least some suggestions as to what work should and should not be completed for a rough-in inspection.  Does any wiring need to be spliced, wire-nutted, terminated within the panel or lighting or receptacle boxes?  My project was running power from main panel to lug and from lug to sub in detached res. garage and installing 4-5 lighting and recep circuits.
      


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Similar Topics From Forums

We've put in a new 240v line for the range. My question is- for the rough inspection should this line be connected to the breaker or no?
      
I'm in the final stages of a rough in.... three questions:



1) Do the feeds to the panel need to be in the panel but not connected or is it ok to just have them pulled over by the panel



2) I've got can lights in a drop ceiling - do I just staple the cable to the joist in the area the light will go and coil up the excess?



3) I have an outlet and a switch that I can't disconnect right now(sump pump and a stairway light) but these will be going on new circuits I pulled. Obviously I can't get the box ready, can I just pull the cable and have it there by the existing box? I thought about putting in a new box, but there really is no space for the outlet and we like where the switch is.



I'd call the inspector and ask his preference but it is a voicemail box that has been full for a week.



Thanks.
      
First off, I have read a majority of the posts concerning this subject and they have been very helpful and answered many questions, but I still have a few.



I am wanting to run power to a detached shed that is around 100 feet from the house. However, due to the location of my main panel and the easiest route to run the power, I am looking at running cable about 270 feet. I measured it out to exactly 263 feet, but figured it would be best to go longer. I am wanting to run at least 60 amps to the shed, as I won't be using it for nothing more then power outlets (basic power tools) and lights. Here are my questions:



1) What cable would be best for such a long distance run?



2) Would a 60 amp subpanel be sufficient for this job. I am looking at only 4 circuits: 1 for internal outlets, 1 for lighting, 1 for motion sensor light outside and 1 for external outlet. I am looking at the following panel:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051



I have seen some marked 70 amp and wondering if they make a difference:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051



3) Also, I will be installing a 30 amp RV connector circuit from my main panel  to the where I park my Camper Trailer, which is a run of about 75 feet. What would be the best cable for this sort of run under ground? Can I run both cable together in the same conduit until I junction if off to where I will be installing the plug for the camper?



4) Would the following be the circuit breakers to use:



60 amp - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051



30 amp - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051



I think that is it for now. Thanks in advance for all your help!!
      
I have an older home (100 yrs) and I would like to upgrade the 100 amp service to 200. My question is when it comes time for the inspector to visit and inspect the new work, could the original wiring of the house be part of the inspection and result in a "fail" of the inspection.

To elaberate, the old wiring is romex and BX yet in the basement it is not run very neat and I see many places where I would add a staple or three. Some of the junction boxes don't have covers etc. Basicly fairly messy.
      
Okay, I am fairly new to wiring but its not the wiring I am wondering about.  It is running the wires.  I have 2 rooms in my house, 2 story and an attic, on the main floor that doesn't have any overhead lighting, only can use floor or table lamps right now.  The ceilings are about 10 feet tall.  There are outlets in the room so I do have power I can tap into for the lighting, but how do I go about running the wires up into the ceiling?  I do know I have to cut the hole for the lighting but will i have to put cut flaps in the drywall where ever there is a brace to drill holes to run the wires.  I am going to go from the middle of the ceiling straight back to the wall and then down to the switch that I will put in and then down to the outlet to tap into for the power.  I am just trying to do this the easiest way to minimize any drywall repair that will be needed.  Any help or suggestions from anyone is greatly appreciated and if you have questions please ask and I willl try to answer them.
      
I just ordered some Arlington Siding Mount Kits with built in electrical boxes to install some lights on the outside of my garage. 



So, the issue is, the mount kits' built in electrical boxes are only 6.8 cu each and I'm wiring the lights up with two 3-way switches.  The source is at the first switch, then on to the two lights and then to the second switch.  There is not enough room to do the splices and connection in the built in boxes (I'm using 12awg, but even if used 14 still not enough room), so my plan was to wire everything to a central junction box inside the garage between the two lights and make the appropriate connections there. 



I'm attaching my rough sketch of the planned connections (omitting ground wires).  Can you guys please confirm this is correct?    Thanks for the help!



To clarify the drawing, blue is white (neutral) and the blue with black tape coming off second switch is marked as hot.  (I'll also mark it as hot in the J-box).  Yellow Triangles are wire-nuts.
      
Is it a violation of code to run exposed NM in a residential detached garage?  The wire is spanning through studs at about 8.5' and then ran closely down the stud to each receptacle and/or switch at 48" from the floor, back up the stud to the 8.5' and on to the next recep. or switch.  Is the wire ran through the studs at 8.5' considered unprotected???
      
Is it ok (up to code) to connect 2" rigid conduit to the breaker box using this type of hub  menards.com/main/electrical/rough-electrical/metal-conduit-fittings/2-water-tight-hub-insulated/p-1442092-c-9538.htm  ??



The conduit will exit the panel at the top, go up about 6", then to an LR, then out to the meter about 6' away.  The 6' run will be supported.



Thanks.
      
I want to set up a hobby woodworking shop in my garage. I was going to run from the panel maybe four or five 12/2's to accommodate lighting, power tools, dust collection, etc. or should I put a subpanel 60 to 100 amp? The main panel is on an outside wall on one side of the house and the garage is on the opposite side of the house. The distance from the panel to the entry into the garage is about 50 ft. I would be pulling wire- a straight run- through a ceiling chase that runs the length of the house. No basement.
      
I completed my whole house rewire last Fall (took 2 years and severely tested my wife's patience). I read 5 wiring books in the early stages but read Rex Cauldwell's Wiring a House with his above code suggestions near the end of the project and now im obsessing about some of the stuff I didnt do. What do you guys think of some of the suggestions, specifically,



1. Driving 8 ground rods and the wire must be continuous (I drove 4 but the #6 copper wire from the panel to rod 1 is 1 wire and the #6 wire from rod 1 through rod 4 is another wire but both are properly clampled to rod 1 with an acord clamp). Funny, even with 4 rods there is almost no current through the rods versus 2-3 amps through the traditional cold water pipe ground



2. 1 circuit for each duplex receptacle in bathrooms. Since I have a quad in each of the batchrooms, that would be 4 circuits instead of 1 (code allows an unlimited number of bathroom receptacles on one circuit which does seem odd)



3. Nothing shared with kitchen counter receptacles (ie kitchen wall and dining room on their own)



4. Dedicated circuits for everything - I added dedicted circuit for fridge, microwave and dishwasher/disposer, but did not separate the dishwasher disposer onto 2 circuits. There used to be what I called "Circuit X" which did kitchen counter, microwave, dishwasher, disposer, fridge, 2 kitchen counter outlets, dining room and 1 outside outlet. Wife frequently blew that one. Circuit X was divided into at least 5 circuits during the rewire



5. No switch loops - did 5 of these to save on carpentry/avoid certain box fill problems. Now 2011 code says no switch loops without a neutral. Oops?



Just wondering what you guys think.