Help Wiring Attic Fan Motor

I have a bad dimmer switch. I have 2 other switches that control the light. They are standard non dimmers. I want to just bypass this dimmer and close it up. Which of these do i connect to which? Do i just connect all the black to black, ETC...? There are 3 sets of wires coming into this box and one of the black wires is just hanging out in the back connected to nothing.







Thank you.
      

Hi, I have a 6" craftsmans metal cutting lathe and trying to wire a drum switch to it. The motor is a 1/3 hp westinghouse split phase motor 6.3 amp 1725 rpm. The switch is forward-off-reverse. There are two posts and two wires on the motor I'm not sure witch ones are start or run and how to go about wiring it there are 6 screws on the switch.I could probly post pics to someone  Thanks
      

I have a 5 hp, guess it's a 80 gallon, 220 volt Ingersoll Rand compressor and had problems with the motor not wanting to start. I found a replacement box that included the Siemens starter and a new reset. The only thing this new box doesn't have is the two 5 amp fuses and didn't figure I needed to use them so I didn't add them to the new box.(?) After wiring the unit I have found the only way the compressor will kick on is if I hold down the Siemens starter re-set.



I know I have the motor wired properly and the wires from the pressure switch expect the white one. It originally went to one of the two fuses and than to where I currently is.(?)



The black motor wire was connected to the bottom of the reset (lower left), which is out of view in the pic

The white motor wire was connected to the bottom right of the Siemens starter

The motor ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box.



The pressure switch black wire was connected to the top right of the starter.

The pressure switch with wire was connected to the top left of the starter.

The ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box.



The incoming black hot wire was connected to the top left of of the starter.

The incoming white hot wire was connected to the top right of the starter.

The ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box.



Any idea what's wrong and have I included enough information?



Thanks, Shawn
      

I have 2 light switches in my entry and need to add a 3rd. So…I removed the old 2-space metal box and will be replacing it with a 3-gang old-work box.



      The issue I’m anticipating having is: The old knob & tube wires coming in aren't very long. As the locations of the openings for the wires in the 3-gang box is a bit different than the old box, I’m worried that the wires now won’t be long enough to now reach the light switches. So, my questions are...



 

   If I need to add 6” or so to some of these wires, is it okay to just splice a new piece of 14-gauge wire onto them?? I simply didn't know if you're allowed to do this.


If so, is this just a matter of using a plastic twist cap to connect them…with everything being done inside the new box?


  Thanks so much for your advice.
      

I have a LEM .35hp meat grinder that did not come with reverse. It is a PITA to use and not have reverse. It is a 120v 250w motor, w 2 caps. There is no schematic on the cover, so I have no idea what which wire goes to where. I plan on using a DPDT switch to reverse it. on-off-(on or mom) switch. I have attached pictures of the motor wiring.  White/black come in then go into motor. White comes out of motor then to larger cap, other wire from large cap goes to red (into motor). Red comes out of motor into smaller cap, second wire to small cab is blue going into motor.



http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0021.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0020.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0022.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.
      

Hello,



I currently have one light switch which operates an outlet in one of my bedrooms.  I want to add a ceiling fan that has independent switches for the fan and light - but I want to make sure i'm wiring it correctly and safely.



Current (First Pic)- Live hot feeds into bottom of switch (bottom insert hole) and the all of the bedroom outlets (pig-tailed) tie into the bottom of the switch on the screw.  Coming out of the top of the switch is one hot which feeds to a single outlet.  All of the neutral and grounds are tied together.



New Plan (Second Pic)- Remove the constant outlet hot from the screw, add a new hot wire to the top of new switch and run a wire up to the attic for fan.  Add another hot wire from the bottom of that switch to the third switch and run another wire up to the attic for the lights.  Re-connect the constant outlet wire to the screw of the last switch.  Connect all the neutrals and all of the grounds together.



At the top of the ceiling, connect the neutrals and grounds together with the fans neutral and ground.  Connect the fan hot to the fan switch hot, and the fan light hot to the light switch hot.
      

I am trying to connect the Digital Timer switch to a 3 way switch. My issue is that the existing switch has 4 wires, Red, Black, White and Ground.



The Digital Timer has 5 wires, Red, Black, White, Blue and Ground (green). I can't understand how to connect it. Any help is appreciated.
      

Hello,



I took a shot at installing a ceiling fan for the first time and I would like to get advice if I did the wiring correctly. There were Black, Copper, Red, and White Wires coming from the ceiling. I read the instructions and connected the wires as stated on the manual. I was left with the Red wire. I called a friend up and he told me to connect the Red wires from ceiling to the Black Connections from Ceiling and Fan. The fan works but something is irking me inside thats telling me this is not safe. Could anyone with any know how in this subject guide me in the right direction?
      

I have an outdoor light fixture that I am trying to replace.  The house was built ten years ago.



When I removed the original lamp, I noticed one of the two leads was wired to the ground, and one was wired to the black wire, which is hot per my current sensor.  There are three wires in the box - black, ground (bare copper), and white or neutral, all from a single romex cable.  Unfortunately, I do not recall where the white was when I removed the original. 



I wired the new lamp per the instructions, something I have done many times before - black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Nothing.  The lamp and bulbs are brand new, and I have tried four separate bulbs.  I checked the black and neutral with my current sensor and with the switch on and the lamp installed this way, both show as hot. With the lamp not installed, the switch on, and the wires disconnected only the black shows as hot.  The switch is single pole, and appears to be wired correctly with a black to each screw on one side and a copper ground on the other.



Assuming the new fixture was bad, I reinstalled the old fixture correctly -  black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Still nothing. No light, and I confirmed the bulb is good by putting it in another lamp.   The only way to get it to light is to connect the neutral in the lamp to the bare copper ground.



I capped the wires, turned the circuit back on, and identified all the outlets, switches and fixtures on the same circuit.  I opened every one of them up (four lights and eight outlets) and found three (one switch and two fixtures in another room) where multiple commons connect.  All were properly connected.  My outlet tester shows all outlets as "correct".  I found no instances of grounds connected to commons or vice-versa.



Any ideas?  Is it proper to wire this thing the way I found it?



Thanks for any and all advice!
      

I am wiring a three phase motor through a two pole vacuum switch. two lines go through the switch but one line is always hot to the motor. is this proper or is this a safety issue?