Home Owner

I replaced a ceiling light with a fan/light with a remote. everthing works. their is one light switch and one dimmer switch. The dimmer switch has a red wire and a black wire connected to the black wires coming out of the dimmer switch, plus a green wire hooked to the metal portion of the dimmer. My question is: Do I have to remove the dimmer switch, if so, can I disconnect the red and black and hook them together? If I have to replace the dimmer with a regular switch, what kind of switch do I get?

Thank you
      

I am currently remodeling a bedroom in my home for a new baby.  I have gutted the room and am replacing all the electrical and adding new recessed lighting.  The room will also have a ceiling fan, along with the recessed lighting.  I am looking for a single gang light switch that will operate the ceiling fan independently of the recessed lighting, with a dimmer for the recessed lighting.  I don't have room for a double gang box where the switch is currently placed, as there is a closet in the way.  Is there such a thing as a switch that will operate the ceiling fan and it's lighting on a normal on/off switch, with a dimmer that can independently control the recessed lighting?  I have checked with the local big box stores and everyone has told me I will have to run two switches.  Is this the case?  Any info would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
      

I was changing out old switches in an old apartment when I came across this enigma. Switches in the kitchen and hall both operate the hall light. The switch in the kitchen was a regular 3way switch job with a red, a black and a white wire. The switch in the hall had four wires, 2 black and 2 white. I replaced this with a 4way which my husband said was incorrect. In the mean time until we find the correct type of switch (which I'm open to suggestions) we put the old ones back on but must have messed something up because now the kitchen switch only works when the hall one is positioned "down".  I have multiple questions. What is the red wire hooked to? None of the wires in the 4-wire box read 110v so which one is the power coming in from? I'll stop here for now.  Thanks.
      

I've installed two dimmer switches in the bar area of my basement. It's the dial type, where you can push the dial in to turn the light on or off, or turn the dial to dim the light. One dimmer operates the recessed lights in the ceiling, and the other dimmer switch works a pendant light that I have over my bar. The dimmer for the recessed lights works totally fine. They turn on, off and dim. The pendant lights, on the other hand, only turn on and off. They for some reason will not dim. I checked the voltage on the pendants to see if maybe it was an issue of the switch being a high voltage dimmer operating low voltage pendants, and the pendants are 120V with 75 max wattage. I'm at a stand still. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Do any of you have suggestions? I took a couple pictures, not sure what good they'll do. The best I can do for a camera is my iPhone, so they're not the best quality.








      

Hey guys and gals,



got a very odd dilemma, in my dining room there is a chandelier lamp that is controlled through a dimmer switch(even though it is not a dimmer). There is also a closet with a light switch as well.



The odd circumstance i am having is when the closet light is on(via its own switch), and you turn on the dinning room light, the closet light goes out. Then if you turn the dining room light off,the closet light turns back on.



The closest light switch has zero effect on the dining room light, the dining room light seems to have control over the closet light and dining room light.



Any ideas on a fix. I was thing just replacing the dimmer(once again does not actually dim) with a single pole interrupter. I just dont want to burn my house down
      

I have a bad dimmer switch. I have 2 other switches that control the light. They are standard non dimmers. I want to just bypass this dimmer and close it up. Which of these do i connect to which? Do i just connect all the black to black, ETC...? There are 3 sets of wires coming into this box and one of the black wires is just hanging out in the back connected to nothing.







Thank you.
      

My house has 240v outlet from the previous owner for a kiln of some sort. Im putting a tanning bed in its place. The plug on the tanning bed is a L6-30. I checked specs on the tanning bed and it requires a L6-30 recepticle and a 30amp circuit breaker. I went to the local home fixit store and found the correct recepticle and bought a 2-pole Siemens 30a circuit breaker. After shutting off the main breaker and using testing equipment I pulled out the 50a breaker and replaced it with the 30a..no problem. Heres where Im not sure....The L6-30 recepticle that goes in the wall has a X and a Y and a G marking on it. The G is grounding per instructions, w is white or grey, and X,Y,Z are black, red, blue or etc etc.The wires that come out of the house are red, black and a bare aluminum bradied type wire. Looking at the back from the top counterclockwise  I hooked up the red, then black, then the bare nraided to the G (has green screw) Is the black and red correct? And why doesnt it say red, black and gound?  Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks!!!
      

I'm new to the forum and I don't mess with electrical issues.  I leave it to the pros.  My question, I'm looking at buying an older home.  It is upgraded to a 200 amp panel, has 3 prong outlets, but the owner said he never ran a gound from the box.  What are the pitfalls / safety hazards of not having grounded outlets?  thanks,
      

Hello. I'm a new home owner and DIY-er. I have 3 fluorescent lights  in my basement. I just replaced the fixtures' older ballasts with new  T8 ballasts in the first two lights and they work fine. I am having  trouble with the third light's wiring to the ceiling. I cut and removed  the old ballast without paying much attention because I was able to wire  the first two lights without any problem. I connected the new ballast  to the bulb sockets in the fixture, just like I did with the first two  lights. When I went to connect the ballast's black and white power lines  to the ceiling lines, I was thrown off by a red wire, which I guess is  connected to the light switch.  In addition, this light is connected to  the one of the other fluorescent lights and both are controlled by the  switch. I have attached  pictures of how I have it wired.



The way I have it wired now,  the other light turns on and works fine when the switch is flipped.  However, this light has the bulb flicker and then not turn on. If anyone  can tell what I'm doing wrong from looking at the pictures, I'd  appreciate any help! Thanks!
      

We just got a used hot tub.  It ran fine where we purchased it but since we got it home, it has not run.  We installed a new breaker for the hot tub and an GFCI outlet outside.  The hot tub inself has a GFCI installed on it.  If we plug it into the GFCI outlet it runs for a few seconds and either trips the circuit inside or the hot tub.  Is it necessary to have a GFCI outlet outisde if the hot tub has one?  We are thinking that this may be our problem..redundancy.  Can we install a regular outlet outside instead of the GFCI outlet?  When we plug it into a regular outlet it runs.  We want to make sure that this is safe before proceeding.