Usage Costs For In Floor Heat Wire ?

Is lowse electric fireplace reduce total heating costs better than home depot? Thanks



lowse 4600 BTU Electric Fireplace with Remote

Zone heating will help reduce total heating costs

No venting required

Electric fireplaces plug into a standard electrical outlet

Can be used with or without heat

and
Home Depot Electric Fireplace plugs into a standard 110-volt outlet and has a classic wood finish. It offers the cozy ambience of a real fireplace without the maintenance or venting requirements. This fireplace features a freestanding design and generates up to 4,600 BTU/hr heat output for rooms up to 1000 sq. ft

Plugs into any standard 110-volt electric outlet

up to 4600 BTU hr heat output for rooms up to 1,000 sq ft

Adjustable thermostatic control

Freestanding
      

Hello All,

Hopefully I am posting this in the correct forum!

I am new to the forum and I have a question I would like to pose.

I am trying to make an extension cable for my telescope hand control.

I have had good results with the 25' length  but it is to short . So I made another one 50' in length but it give me connection error codes. The cable is correct as it worked for a while .I am using an rj12 6pin connector with cat5 cable(24awg). The power supply is 12V DC with 2.5 amps running on house AC.

The question is: If I put a different power supply on that is 12v DC using 5.0 amps will the increase in amperage effect the DC current flow?



Thanks,

Don
      

My house has 240v outlet from the previous owner for a kiln of some sort. Im putting a tanning bed in its place. The plug on the tanning bed is a L6-30. I checked specs on the tanning bed and it requires a L6-30 recepticle and a 30amp circuit breaker. I went to the local home fixit store and found the correct recepticle and bought a 2-pole Siemens 30a circuit breaker. After shutting off the main breaker and using testing equipment I pulled out the 50a breaker and replaced it with the 30a..no problem. Heres where Im not sure....The L6-30 recepticle that goes in the wall has a X and a Y and a G marking on it. The G is grounding per instructions, w is white or grey, and X,Y,Z are black, red, blue or etc etc.The wires that come out of the house are red, black and a bare aluminum bradied type wire. Looking at the back from the top counterclockwise  I hooked up the red, then black, then the bare nraided to the G (has green screw) Is the black and red correct? And why doesnt it say red, black and gound?  Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks!!!
      

Hi.  This is not exactly home-improvement-related, but I'm hoping some of the electrical gurus out there can answer my question.  I am building an underwater fishing light.  It will basically be a sealed green acrylic tube with LED bulbs in it, powered by a 12V DC battery.  It will be submerged between 2-5 feet.  I imagine it will be used approximately between 2-6 hours at a time, so the cable will not be submerged in water or a wet area permanently. 



Obviously I am doing this to save $$ (they are expensive otherwise), and I find myself wondering why I can't buy an inexpensive extension cord (lamp-cord-style) and use it for the power from battery to light.  I started looking at garden lighting wire, but that stuff is very expensive.



Would auto electrical wire (with shrink tubing) be sufficient (though I'm not sure I can find shrink tubing with enough length)?  Speaker wire?  LOL. 



Any suggestions would be appreciated!



Edit: One thing I forgot to mention is that I don't want the power cord to be heavy at all.  Nice and light is the key!
      

I participate in a Pop-up camper discussion group (Popup Portal) and the following was posted reguarding the use of 30 amp extension cords:





"I just returned from Mobile Mart, my go to store for anything for my TT.  Was looking for a 25ft extension for my 30 amp power cord. The salesman  filled me in on some tips about buying extension cords for service.



1.  Never buy a black cord unless you have to have it now or it's the only  thing they have. The black cord absorbs and holds heat. We all know what  to much heat or amperage draw will do to an extension cord. Cords come  in a variety of colors.....orange, blue, yellow, etc. I picked up a  yellow one for visibility.



2. When your plugged in and have left  over cord DO NOT coil it up on the ground. Spread it out so any and all  heat can disipate easier. I usually pull just enough out to reach the  box and leave the rest inside the camper. I don't believe he was talking  about what is in the camper that but whatever is outside the camper  needs to be spread out.



3. If you have to have a lot of line  spread out to be able to plug in he suggested some type of covering to  shade the cord. I'm pretty sure this would pertain to monthly campers  and others that stay in one spot for awhile. Even still a good idea for  those of us that are down south here with temps in the triple digits."



I suggested that most (or all) of this is BS.



What say you?
      

I recently used a licensed electrical contractor to install a meter base and mast on my house. He gave me an estimate of $2600 and asked me for a deposit of half that before he would start working. I gave him that amount and he did the work. This week i received his final invoice of costs and the amount due is $2400. That is on top of the 1300 i already gave him. Therefore his estimate was wrong by almost 50%. I talked to him and he said there were no major problems that werent expected in his estimate. I am from Temagami Ontario and this is were the electrician is from and the work was done. Is there a legal limit on how wrong his estimate can be or am i stuck paying this ridiculous amount?



Thanks for any input or response.
      

hi i need a power supply to my garage/workshop, i have a spare in my consumer unit in my house type b 32a mcb, and will i need a 4mil swa?? or 6mil swa?? from the cu in the house to the garage cu,(63A. 30MA. RCD., 1 x 6A lights + 1 X 16A scokets. MCB),, i will be useing a welder, grinders with a(240v- 110v transformer) and there will be 2 double scoket outlets in the workshop,,,is this all correct?? thanks,
      

Need to run wire for automatic horse waterers (1.3 amps each) to an open field about 350' away from the barn.



Ran 14/2 UF wire to 3 waterers inside the barn.

350' away from barn, is #10 wire OK for such a small load (1.3 amps for each waterer - 3 waterers in the field)? or do I need #8?



In the field, need to run to 3 separate wateres, so I think I need a subpanel out in the field...

How do I install the subpanel in an outdoor setting & what materials do I need?

If #10 wire is ok, I need 10/3 UF to run from the main panel to the subpanel - correct? Also, does the entire run need to be in conduit?

What size conduit if needed?

Is 18" deep enough?



What size breaker at the main panel?

What size breaker at the subpanel?--> only need to run 3 waterers (1.7 amps each) and maybe two separate circuits of outdoor receptacles...

What else is needed here? type of outdoor subpanel, grounding rods, etc...????



Thanks for the help!
      

I live in the bottom unit of a 6 unit bldg. We have the filters and everything in a room off of our unit. We also have a breaker on our panel for the pump. I haven't tested it yet by shutting off the breaker (mainly due to long hours at work lately and nobody is awake when I am home), but is it possible/probable that the pump for the whole bldg is running off of our meter? There are 6 total units and 6 total meters outside, so there is no obvious meter for the pump circuit (plus the breaker is on OUR panel).
      

QUESTION:  can I run (2) 14-2 romex wires in (1) 3/4 BX Armored cable?



SETUP: I am finishing my basement and a few main floor circuits are intermingled with the basement lights and outlets.  In finishing the basement, all basement electrical will be on its own circuit. Therefore, I need to rewire some main floor items.



For instance, the main floor living room outlets go through the den area below in the basement. The 3/4 BX cable goes through the ceiling to the outlets.



PLAN:  I plan to cut the armored cable shortly after it comes out of the ceiling (main floor floor) and just connect the first floor outlets in a series using the proper bushing and BX cable ends. I will strap the BX cable ends down and the romex as soon as it comes out.



The electrical inspector already gave me thumbs up on doing this for the electric oven and cooktop (bigger wires of course).



I searched and couldn't find anything to this specific question.



Any input?



B