Electric Fireplace

I've the electric fireplace without the remote control. Is any fireplace remote?
      

im trying to hook up a gas fireplace for my friend.  I see the 14-2 bx cable coming out of the fire place.  The things that bothers me is that their another cable coming out of the fireplace but with just one black cable inside it.  Im not sure what that cable is for?
      

remodeling basement ..don't want to tape into my furnace for heat ... have one large room 480' sq. and am thinking of using two or three  baseboard electric heaters [possibly Cadet                                                              6 Ft. 1500 Watt 240 Volt Electric] as heat source on outside walls ..out side walls insulated and basement not real cold ...I'm doing electrical now ..do these need to have there own independent run or can they be wired to 3 basement pull chain lights which I seldom use and are on a 15 amp circuit .........the basement remodel has 3 separate runs [ 2 lights 1 outlets ] ..thanks for any advise
      

Electrical novice here.... I think calling myself even a novice is too much credit.

The good thing is I'm not the one that did the work....



My question is about votls/amps/wats correlations.



Long sorry short ... I have in floor heating wire that was installed - this is not the typical off-the-shelf type (have a friend in the home products biz and he picked this up for me on a recent trip to china).



I am trying to estimate usage costs come winter time... but something just does not sound right to me...



It is 18W/220V heat wire...



        Have 120/240 Volt Main Service



Is the calculation correct:



Power       18w per meter and i have 220 meters (700 Ft)   

 

- total power is 220m*18w/m, if your voltage is 240V, the Amps will be 220*18/240v=16.5A.



If correct - That means this is going to be insanely expensive to run - correct?


      

I was in my attic today doing some work when I noticed a bare twisted copper wire that ran along a ceiling joist.  All along it was charred wood and charred  fiberglass insulation.  Luckily the fire it caused did not sustain itself and I was able to find the problem.  I then traced the wire and figured it originated in my breaker box (although I could not determine exactly where in the box).  It then ran across my attic alongside a ceiling joist and down into a wall ending up connecting to my water meter.

  Several months ago,  the electric company was restoring power to my area and ended up sending a power surge into my house taking out an oscillating fan, a toaster and a GFI outlet.  Last winter, I also had to have my electric meter pole replaced by an electrician after a tree branch took it out during an ice storm.

  I was wondering if one of these events could have caused the ground wire to heat up or something else entirely is going on?  I am suppose to have a company blow in  insulation soon and I need to figure this problem out.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.
      

I recently purchased the Meco 9359 electric BBQ since I cannot have gas or charcoal grills in my condo. The instructions recommend plugging into an outlet with at least 15 amps. The grill itself has a 1500 watt rating. The outlet on my deck (15 amps) is shared with the 2nd bedroom, the bathroom and one outlet in the kitchen. Out of all these recipticles, the one in the kitchen is the only one with something plugged into it (an emergency flashlight that lights up when the power goes out). The



My father, God love him, sometimes cries Armageddon when things aren't 100% perfect in his eyes and is recommending that I return the grill. Is there an inherit danger using this grill in the outdoor outlet based on what I've listed? The outside outlet is not GFCI, would replacing it with one help?
      

Hello.

my electricity bills have been sky high for as long as i have been keeping track of them (less than 2 years).   i finally decided to try to track down the culprit.  I bought a watt meter to find phatom loads.  I found some and took care of them



However,

The electric hot water tank has got me thinking.  Could this be the cause of high utility bills?  The tank itself is ancient (RHEEM).  By the way it is rented from the utility company.  it is hard to tell the age because there is no date stamp, and the model number does not come up on the internet at all.  If i were to guess, maybe 25 years easily.  It functions in that I get hot water no problem



1.  Is it possible that the electric  HWT consumes way more energy than it should?, and how?

2.  Is there a way to track the usage?  My utility company installed a smart meter last year, and required an upgrade to get a new circiut breaker panel from old fuses

thanks
      

I'm replacing my electric range with gas.  The electric has (I think) a four-wire #6 or #8 cable approx 60ft run with a 40a dual post breaker.  I say "I think" because the wire is behind everything else in the panel.  I see red/white/black wires, but no ground and I can't read the jacket.  Once I cut the main, i'll have a closer look. 



The gas range requires only a 15amp breaker. 

Can I simply replace the breaker with 15A and the 4 prong outlet with a Nema 5-15p?  I'd cap off both ends of the red wire.  Is there some sort of code that says I need to maintain the 40A circuit for a future stove?

Or is there some sort of transformer I can plug into the stove end and avoid all that hassel.  ?
      

I have heard it is unsafe to plug faulty toasters into a 2 prong outlet as there is no earthing, however by design, the toaster's heating elements are kept insulated from the actual metal frame is this not so?, hence technically if there is nothing wrong with the toaster, this should be ok, correct?
      

I'm new to this site.  But would appreciate some troubleshooting.  I just renovated my kitchen, gutted and all, finished in the Fall.  I did not replace wiring to the dryer, nor tamper with it, to my knowledge.  We did have an electrician add a small fuse panel.  We did not add more appliances then before, added some lights, but mostly used the room to separate things out.  Had a mentor do the wiring, many years of experience, very tidy and careful work, though not electrician by trade.  We have a standard 200 amp box as far as i know.  The house is 100 years old, but the wiring isn't.



In October my mother in law heard a very loud bang.  The electric dryer had been running.  She smelled smoke.  At the dryer receptacle was molten plastic sprayed onto the wall, caused by overheating at that point, due to I don't know what.  I thought maybe I had knocked something loose in the receptacle when i was drywalling around it.  I can't remember now if the breaker had tripped.  The receptacle and plug were toast. 



I replaced the receptacle, I replaced the dryer cord, not the breaker.   The dryer worked fine until february, when it stopped heating.  I found a bad thermal fuse and replaced it, the very common two pronged white one. 



The dryer worked fine until early April when it stopped heating again.  I checked all the fuses/thermostats on the back and the heating element, as I had done the first time.  Nothing was bad.  I checked the voltage coming out of the wall, as I had done the first time, only this time I did it correctly and got a reading that told me to check the breaker in the panel, which had not thrown.  When I checked the voltage between the Nuetral Bus and the two terminals on the Dryer's 30 amp breaker I only got a good reading on one of them, telling me that the breaker was bad.  While at the box, i noticed that to the main breaker, from where the conduit comes into the box from outside, the nuetral wires are bare all the way up, no insulation, and at the terminal of the main breaker they appear to have all melted together, even a couple small pieces have melted off of the "bundle." 



Switched the range 50 amp breaker with the dryer, dryer worked fine, nothing was back fed either.  Bought a new 30 amp breaker for the dryer and installed it on Saturday.  Also on Saturday we were given a dryer, about 4 years old, same as ours, so i hooked it up and saved ours for a spare, which I deemed still good since it seemed the breaker was the issue.  New Dryer worked fine from saturday until today.  Now it won't turn on, though it didn't cut out mid load yesterday either.  The breaker did not trip.  I repeat, no tripped breaker.  I just checked the voltage at the wall and it seems to have that same problem where one side of the receptacle gets a reading of 120, and the other a reading of about 5.  The problem must be bigger than the breaker.  I am not an electrician, I am a welder.  I have gone as far as I could on my own.  Thank you.