3 Way Switch, 2 Lights

Hello,



I currently have one light switch which operates an outlet in one of my bedrooms.  I want to add a ceiling fan that has independent switches for the fan and light - but I want to make sure i'm wiring it correctly and safely.



Current (First Pic)- Live hot feeds into bottom of switch (bottom insert hole) and the all of the bedroom outlets (pig-tailed) tie into the bottom of the switch on the screw.  Coming out of the top of the switch is one hot which feeds to a single outlet.  All of the neutral and grounds are tied together.



New Plan (Second Pic)- Remove the constant outlet hot from the screw, add a new hot wire to the top of new switch and run a wire up to the attic for fan.  Add another hot wire from the bottom of that switch to the third switch and run another wire up to the attic for the lights.  Re-connect the constant outlet wire to the screw of the last switch.  Connect all the neutrals and all of the grounds together.



At the top of the ceiling, connect the neutrals and grounds together with the fans neutral and ground.  Connect the fan hot to the fan switch hot, and the fan light hot to the light switch hot.
      

Hi, I have a fluorescent light I'd like to remove and add a tracklight.



Luckily it's in the basement with an unfinished ceiling.



here's the circuit map as is now:



1. breaker to fluorescent light.... connections inside

2. fluorescent light to switch at the top of the stairs

3. switch to the light in the stairwell. This terminates the circuit.



The wiring is all 14/2



I'd like to replace the the fluorescent light with a track light, but I'm not sure how to continue the circuit to the switch in the stairwell.



Is it safe to...



1. bring the cable from the breaker to the junction box.

2. connect the black wire with the black wire on the light AND the black wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette.

3. connect the white wire with the white wire on the light AND the white wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette

4. connecting a 6 inch bare 14 gauge wire to the box ground screw, then using a marette, connecting it with the ground wire from the cable entering the box as well as the one leaving and also the ground wire from the light.



Will this work and is it safe?
      

what the fudge sticks man?



I am not a DIY'er or a handy man but I gave it a shot..



I replaced an old a$$ receptacle with a brand new one and I wired it EXACTLY the same as the old one..



I know this because I did it WIRE BY WIRE!! i.e. I took 1 wire off the old receptacle and installed it on the new one.. wire by wire..



Power works and all that.. BUT NOW the ONLY light switch in the room does not control the bottom receptacle anymore?



what gives? i don't get it.. what changed?



Previously the light switch gave power to this outlets bottom plug, so I had the lamp plugged into it and turned it on/off with the light switch..



but that doesn't work?



I even triple checked my work and still not seeing whats up?





any ideas?





oNe.





p.s.  HOW do you release the wires on these new fangled outlets? It says push spring in slot to release but I am not seeing it?  any ideas?
      

wanted to get feeback on my crude wiring diagram i put together for my small bathroom remodel. does it appear to be sound or am i way off base??



details:



* 20A dedicated circuit

* 12/2 wiring

* outlet's will be GFCI

* double gang box will contain:

* timer unit for exhaust fan

* double switch for heat lamp and lights

* Ground wiring is not shown but each fixture/outlet/switch will be connected to ground wire

* by calculations, the 34cu box is fine for the number of conductors/size of wiring. per box specs could handle 15/12g wires.

* the scanner cut off the bottom part of the picture, the 2 lights on the right are fed from the same switch, neutral's connected together.



F = Exhaust Fan

L = Light

HL = Heat Lamp

T = Timer switch

S = Switch

H = Hot

N = Neutral

Wire Nuts are in the box connecting the pigtails



Thank you for your input.
      

Hi All,



Need to replace an old faulty two switch fixture in the bathroom (light and exhaust fan). Right now, each switch on the single fixture separately operates either the light or the fan, regardless of the position of the other switch. Want to keep things that way. 



Here is a picture of the old fixture's wiring: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1179096/photo1.jpg



To replace this fixture, I bought to the Leviton 5634 (design diagram he  http://communities.leviton.com/servl...224%205634.pdf)



Unfortunately, what is confusing me is the the different designs between the two fixtures and the fact that the original unit seems to have some kind of patch or cross over type wire connecting the top and the bottom switches (see photo link above).



Any help/advice on how to wire this new fixture based on the picture of the current wiring configuration would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!
      

I want to run Romex from a j-box, that is in the ceiling of my basement, to the main panel.  I know that I can run Romex from the box along the face of the joist (not the bottom), but what are my options once the Romex gets to the wall?  The joist I am using, conveniently enough, meets the wall ideally for where the panel is.  However, I've read that I need to run the Romex through EMT, or some form of conduit.



If you look at the picture I've attached, the panel is mounted on a piece of plywood that extends out underneath the joist.  Can I just staple the Romex to the plywood and then run it into the panel without using any conduit?  The cast iron pipe makes using any conduit quite a problem.



The cable you see is MC Lite, but I want to replace it with Romex.  There are going to be up to 9 more lines coming into the panel this very way.
      

Hello,



can cables be run along the side of 2x4s which run along bottom of rafters? Sheetrock will be put up later on - attached to the 2x4s.

These are vaulted ceilings.



I know about the issue with nailing into cables in the walls and the requirement to install nail plates but how does this apply to the ceiling in this case (shown on attached picture)?



I'd like not to drill holes into the rafters to run the cables.



Will inspectors be ok with this?



Thanks
      

I am selling my house and the Home Inspector said that the basement surfaced mounted receptacles needed to be in conduit because the wires were exposed.  He didnt say anything about the exposed wiring that was stapled to the bottom of the joists had to be in conduit.  Can I just leave the exposed wires on the joist exposed or do I have to but them in conduit too?  Could I also just drill the joists out and run the wire inside them?  Is there a code about this?  Did the Home Inspector forget this?   What would happen if I only fixed the receptacles with conduit and nothing else?  Thanks In Advance!
      

I have a 5 hp, guess it's a 80 gallon, 220 volt Ingersoll Rand compressor and had problems with the motor not wanting to start. I found a replacement box that included the Siemens starter and a new reset. The only thing this new box doesn't have is the two 5 amp fuses and didn't figure I needed to use them so I didn't add them to the new box.(?) After wiring the unit I have found the only way the compressor will kick on is if I hold down the Siemens starter re-set.



I know I have the motor wired properly and the wires from the pressure switch expect the white one. It originally went to one of the two fuses and than to where I currently is.(?)



The black motor wire was connected to the bottom of the reset (lower left), which is out of view in the pic

The white motor wire was connected to the bottom right of the Siemens starter

The motor ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box.



The pressure switch black wire was connected to the top right of the starter.

The pressure switch with wire was connected to the top left of the starter.

The ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box.



The incoming black hot wire was connected to the top left of of the starter.

The incoming white hot wire was connected to the top right of the starter.

The ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box.



Any idea what's wrong and have I included enough information?



Thanks, Shawn
      

Is it o.k. to use 12/2 to make a pigtail off 14/2 wiring. Have hot feed coming in to switch that feeds ceiling fan/light (14/2). It is also hot feed for receptacles. I am replacing manufactured home style switch and installing normal switch and remodel box into wall. I just don't have any spare 14/2 laying around bit do have some 12/2. I was pretty sure can go up in wire size especially just for pigtails but wanted be 100% certain.



           Mike