Quick Receptacle Question.

Hi all! 



I'm trying to install an outdoor box for my low voltage lighting controller unit.  I have an electrical junction box that's split from indoors and leads to a post lamp.  I'm wondering how I split this junction box off to a simple 110 receptical for my outdoor lighting controller.  I've attached a picture just in case I didn't explain well.  Thank everyone for the help!!!




      

I have wired many motors in my life but this is kicking my butt. The parkinsons doesn't help either. The motor is a 1/6 hp G.E. 120vac single phase 4 lead blk, red, and directional blue,yel. the switch is a Carling heavy duty DPDT. I have soldered red, blk to the bottom 2 terminals-grn , wht to the middle terminals. I can get it to reverse but at the off middle position (on-off-on) it continues to run with a jerky movement.

Please give me your thoughts on this one as I really need to get it going as I have already mounted it to a reduction gear box for this project.My cognitive thinking is going rather fast.

thanks, hatch
      

I have 3 wire direct bury feeder cable from a 200 amp meter base/sub panel to a 125 amp sub panel on a post 150' away and the 125 amp sub panel will feed a 30 amp RV outlet box.

The 3 wire feed was already there and I know it is not to 2008 code, but my question is: do I need to bond the neutral bar to the ground bar and to a ground rod at the 125 amp subpanel?
      

If I'm reading my instruction sheet correctly my QO 15A CAIF it will trip instantly for a shared neutral. Does that mean that I am not allowed to use it to feed 1/2 of a MWBC?
      

Hi all,



Had some issues with my sub panel tonight.  The sub has tandem 20A breakers to feed my Home Theater in the basement.  We were watching tv on the projector when my whole AV rack went dead.  I was able to track it back to the sub panel.  Forgive me if my terminology is not correct on the description....Turns out the top bus bar? has no power. (The one that the red wire feeds)  But when I trace that red wire back to the main panel it sees 124V.  The bus bar that the white wire is connected to sees 124V.



As in the picture below, the breaker on the left has no power but if I swap it with the one on the right it works.



Why would that top bar not have any juice to it?




      

I am putting a theater area in my basement, but my electrical panels are also in the same room.  To keep the room symmetrical, it would look best to install the new panel two stud bays over and put the sconce in between - then it would match with the sconce on the other side.  I can't put the sconce on the other side further back because of a doorway.  I plan to paint the panels the same color as the walls so they blend a little better.



Anyhow, I attached a picture of the proposed layout.  The sconce sticks about 5 inches out from the wall.  Will the inspector approve such a setup?  I should still be able to access the panels without an issue, but don't want to do something against code, or stupid in some way.



Thanks!
      

hi guys,



Im a 1st year apprentice sparks so pretty inexperienced! i have a job on during the week to wire a bathroom extractor fan in for my friend. He wants it to come on separately from the bathroom light.



Theres a 2 gang switch outside  the bathroom, one for landing lights other for bathroom. So im thinking of replacing this with a 3 gang switch for the fan.



Im gonna take permanent feed from one of the two other switches ie(bathroom or landing) to the fan switch 'common' to power it, then also take a permanent feed for the fan from the 'common' side of this new switch as its a timer fan.



Then switch feed from L1 on new switch to fan. And finally neutral from bathroom light fitting to fan. I know that these 3 cables going to fan have to be isolated at another switch before going to fan!



Am I on the right track. Thanks in advance.
      

Is it o.k. to use 12/2 to make a pigtail off 14/2 wiring. Have hot feed coming in to switch that feeds ceiling fan/light (14/2). It is also hot feed for receptacles. I am replacing manufactured home style switch and installing normal switch and remodel box into wall. I just don't have any spare 14/2 laying around bit do have some 12/2. I was pretty sure can go up in wire size especially just for pigtails but wanted be 100% certain.



           Mike
      

OK, I took everyone's advice and ran a separate 6/3 w/50A male inlet receptacle back to the panel area so my RV generator can feed the transfer switch.



I'm ordering a Reliance 51406C (50A, 6 circuits).  The generator (Onan 5500) puts out 45A, but my house only needs a small number of circuits because it has mostly natural gas appliances and gas furnace with radiators.



I was wondering if anyone has hardwired one with 6/3 Romex?  The small compartment the unit has for hardwiring looks pretty tight for 6/3 plus the wire nuts.
      

Our pool was installed 10 years ago and we need to change the 3 underwater lights because they are leaking. The cable for each light box goes through a conduit and up to a "deck Box" or junction box per code so water from pool can't run up to the box. In order to change the lights we need to locate the box and pull the wires out, then feed the wires through for the new light. The problem is that one of the boxes seems to be missing. That light sits under a stone waterfall and there is a planting area behind the waterfall. Ive searched under all the bushes and even done a bit of digging but cant find the box. I'm wondering if there is some smarter way to locate it.



I tried a metal detector but there were too many false alarms from every metal scrap the work men left behind. I was wondering if there is something that could be fed through the conduit to junction box that would send a signal allowing it to be located. I know the cesspool guys use something like that and thought maybe an electrician might have a similar tool.



The new lights are completely different than the old ones so we can't just change out one. if we can;t change this light we can;t change any of them and the whole project goes down the drain. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.