Upgrading Breaker Panel For Tankless Hot Water Heater

I have 200 amp service with a 50 amp service tap to the garage and another 50 amp tap to a small service panel for extra circuits. I have a 70 amp draw for a tankless water heater, 30 amp draw for the air conditioner, a 40 amp draw for the cooktop and a 40 amp draw for a double oven. I want to add another tankless water heater about 50 feet from the 200 amp panel. The new water heater requires three 50 amp breakers. How do I get the necessary service to the new water heater?
      

Can anyone please tell me what type of wire i need for my hot water heater?  Also is it going to be a double pole 30A breaker or is it just 120V  #10/2?
      

Hi All,



Planning on installing a Zip contract 2 point of use overhead water heater, 10 litre 2kw.



Query can I use current mcb & rcb installed in distribution box which was used for 3kw immersion water heater.



If not can I use a 45amp 30ma mcb and if so what rcb rating should I also use.



I am assumming that the old water immersion circuit would be ok or would the rating be too strong being it 3kw as opposed to the now 2kw.



Cheers,

Nutrifix.
      

I have a small 19 gallon water heater in a small garage space, that was installed by some questionable handymen a few months back.  I just had the plumbing and septic finished so tested the hot water, only to find the element was already burned out.



I noticed however, that this 120v unit is wired via 10 gauge wire to a 30 amp double breaker.  This is questionable because I thought a 120v appliance would be wired to a single pole on the hot wire and run neutral to the neural panel area.



My question is, can I run the hot wire out of one side of the double breaker without safety issues, or should I definitely replace it with a single pole breaker?



I would normally not question the work, but everything these guys did already had to be adjusted, so I'm only naturally assuming this may need to be also.



If its safe, I would like to simply things and just connect the one hot and leave an open space in the other half of the double pole... Is this possible?



Thanks for your advice-
      

Hello.

my electricity bills have been sky high for as long as i have been keeping track of them (less than 2 years).   i finally decided to try to track down the culprit.  I bought a watt meter to find phatom loads.  I found some and took care of them



However,

The electric hot water tank has got me thinking.  Could this be the cause of high utility bills?  The tank itself is ancient (RHEEM).  By the way it is rented from the utility company.  it is hard to tell the age because there is no date stamp, and the model number does not come up on the internet at all.  If i were to guess, maybe 25 years easily.  It functions in that I get hot water no problem



1.  Is it possible that the electric  HWT consumes way more energy than it should?, and how?

2.  Is there a way to track the usage?  My utility company installed a smart meter last year, and required an upgrade to get a new circiut breaker panel from old fuses

thanks
      

In a large bunkhouse we need to add a second range, water heater, and kitchen outlets.  The existing panel is 125 AMP (with breaker), and don't want to redo entire panel.  A consultant said to install a 200 AMP drop, with a panel to handle the additional load.  Would you then feed each of the panels from that drop as main panels, or use a new 200 AMP panel as the main, and the 125 as a sub-panel from that?  I assume in either instance, the grounding would be done as a 200 AMP service.  Just realized if each was a main panel, the new one couldn't exceed 75 Amps, or total would be over 200.  Any other ideas appreciated.
      

I have a 15 amp breaker that services one light, one GFCI, one bathroom fan, one blade fan and one smoke detector. Can I also add one 750w baseboard heater using 14/2 wire?
      

We need to have a new water line put in from the meter in the parking strip to the house. We've recently had a new electrical panel put in and the electricians pounded two grounding rods into the ground outside our house. Because of this, will the house be just as well grounded if we get plastic pipe as if we get metal?
      

First off im in So Cal. and a few months back my pool equipment stoped working after a rain storm. I have an underground conection that is accseible through a plastic box in the concrete. There is a water proof box there that housed the wiring as it runs from 220 breaker underground to the pool equip., I opened it to find it full of water. The short burned the wiring some where under some 60 feet of cement. I forgot to mention the wiring in existing conduit will not pull through have tried several times even as despreate as a come-along.



Ive had an electrician and Genral contractor both look at it and both said wiring is fried, but im looking for advice on my two options.



1st is cutting a trench in the cement about 60 to 70 feet from circuit breaker to pool equipment. Then using conduit the whole lenght like it was previously but no under ground box. Just two connections breacker & pool Equip.



2nd option the breaker is near my atic. run power from breaker through the house atic to where pops out on the other side of the house. would be about 50 feet through atic and about another 50 feet of conduit 25 above ground attached to eves and 25 below ground to pool equipment. This is a similar route as the gas line to pool equipment they will come out of atic about 20 feet apart then eventually follow similar path is this a problem?? I was told to use 12-3 Romex?? Suggestions on which route to take would be great. Atic is clearly easyer but concerend with closeness to gas line. Thanks before hand for the help
      

We are in the process of redoing the area around our pool. As part of this we are adding a pool house and hot tub (separate from pool).



I have a couple Elecrtical Contractors coming out this weekend to price/put together a plan. Along with talking to several indivuals, I've been lurking around reading and trying to gather info but feel the need to have as much info available prior to getting these estimates and plans. Please excuse any incorrect verbage i might use and appreciate any corrections to my terminoligy



So this is what i have 



The pool house is approx 100 ft from the house.

It will have a few and outlets for blenders, minifridge, tv etc

the pool equipement consites of a pump, heater and a sand filter. The pump and current heater run off standard 110 lines (however if i upgrade this I dont know if the new one will require a 220 line



The pool light seems to run off a standard line as well



The hottub requires a 220 40amp line



There will be landscaping lighting as well as 2 more outlets for accesories



The original setup prior to last year had what looks like 6 or 8 guage (3 wire) directly buried about 6-8 inches under  ground. it was running what look to be two 20amp circuits from the main panel inside the house. This wire got split to two separate outlets near the pool. One went directly to the pool equipment and on directy to the pool light switch and some landscaping ighting.



With all the enhancements we are making i'm wondering what the best approach will be.



I assume a sub panel in the pool house that has one "main breaker" and has its own ground. Then one run to the pool equipment and one run to the hottub and a couple runs to the accesories i mentioned.



I have seen several replies on here where individuals talk about  "if they were doing the job this is how they would do it". Id be interested in some responses



What type of wire would be best to get it to the pool house

Does it run right from the main panel in the house?

Does direct burial make sense or shold i put it in conduit? I'm already digging a trench three feet deep for water and RG6 (which will be pushed thru conduit)



Any question i should make sure i ask the contractors?





Thanks in advance for any input