Wiring 120 Baseboard Heater

I have a 20 amp circuit running into my addition that I planned on running one baseboard heater from so I don't have a junction box. Now I'm putting one in the bedroom and one in the ensuite. I'm OK with using the thermostat on the heater instead of the wall so I'm wondering how to run the circuit from one baseboard heater to the next using one circuit and separate thermostats. They are back to back separated by a wall and I haven't closed in one side of the wall yet.
      

Hi,



Forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere - a cursory check didn't

bring up an answer, but maybe I didn't search on the right thing...



I've got to replace a baseboard heater that was located under a receptacle.



I was first thinking this is covered by the "grandfather" clause, but a bit more checking has me confused - it looks like maybe the NEC doesn't specifically prohibit this (maybe they do in the newest code book), but pretty much all manufacturers now seem to specifically say not to do this, so it would seem to be prohibited.



So what do you do?  Here's a couple of pics of where I have to put this unit:



http://www.rkgphotos.com/recent_stuf...er_corner2.jpg

http://www.rkgphotos.com/recent_stuf...er_corner1.jpg



a 1500W unit is what should go here.  just pulling the receptacle/putting on a cover plate means there's gonna be more than 12 feet between receptacles along this wall.



Its also complicated by this being both an outside wall and a common element so I didn't want to butcher it up completely.



It seemed like I could: 1) use 2 heaters with a gap under the receptacle (though the spacing kind of sucks for this), 2)pull the receptacle, put on a cover plate and forget about it (practically not a problem but violates the 12 foot rule), 3) use the receptacle box as a J box and run a line down to where the heater is and use one of those funky receptacles you mount to one end of the heater, or 4)??



Anyway, suggestions/observations would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks,

rkg

(Richard George)
      

I have a tankless hot water heater with the following requirements:

Voltage/Freq:240v/60

Wattage:21kw

Max amp load: 88

Min req circuit breaker: 2x60

Min wire size: 2x8 AWG copper (note:should be 2x6)



Amps to house is 200. Breaker box is 10 years old with space to add new breaker. The old 30 breaker will come out, new 2x60 in, and new wiring will need to be run approx 15 feet to location of old water heater.



Initial quotes from electricians via phone are all over the place and I have someone coming to house on Friday for a site estimate. In my understanding, the work is straight forward as stated above. What am I missing? Or what might the electricians be thinking I am not (besides pulling a $40 permit)?
      

Hello I need seriouse help! In my situation I have a three switch, one for the light, one for the vent fan, and one for the heater. This is in a bathroom rent house. My problem is that when I turn the switch on for the light, the light and fan turn on, when I switch the heater on, that switch does nothing, the same when I switch the fan on. The wall plate is labeled: light, fan, heater. So what I attempted to do is put a switch outlet combo in. I have two black wires, two white wires and a ground. So I put the black wires on brass and the white wires on black,( they are black screws instead of silver, not sure if I got the right kind of switch). So when I did that, when I turn the switch on, the fan turns on, but no light, also when the switch is on the outlet is hot.( which fine that is how I want it). But what did I do wrong, why does fan work but not the light. I my biggest fear is that I might have made a fire hazard. Please help and tell me if what have done is safe, and maybe help me figure out how to turn the fan and light on with the same switch..  Thank you for all your input, have trouble falling asleep, keep thinking the house might burn down.. Sorry for the long post
      

Can anyone please tell me what type of wire i need for my hot water heater?  Also is it going to be a double pole 30A breaker or is it just 120V  #10/2?
      

I have a switch plate in the bathroom that has worked just fine for 6 years, now the top switch which is the light switch, wont "click" into the on position. It just springs back to the off position. The other two are to the ceiling exhaust fan, and the heater in the same unit as the fan.

The heater switch sparks now, it did not before. What can I do?

Thanks, Ellie
      

Hi All,



Planning on installing a Zip contract 2 point of use overhead water heater, 10 litre 2kw.



Query can I use current mcb & rcb installed in distribution box which was used for 3kw immersion water heater.



If not can I use a 45amp 30ma mcb and if so what rcb rating should I also use.



I am assumming that the old water immersion circuit would be ok or would the rating be too strong being it 3kw as opposed to the now 2kw.



Cheers,

Nutrifix.
      

I have 200 amp service with a 50 amp service tap to the garage and another 50 amp tap to a small service panel for extra circuits. I have a 70 amp draw for a tankless water heater, 30 amp draw for the air conditioner, a 40 amp draw for the cooktop and a 40 amp draw for a double oven. I want to add another tankless water heater about 50 feet from the 200 amp panel. The new water heater requires three 50 amp breakers. How do I get the necessary service to the new water heater?
      

Now I have a 20 amp breaker at the circuit box that has older two wire, ie black and white no ground.  This cable looks to be in good shape.  This services several overhead lights in bedrooms.  I need to tie into this to create overhead lights in the bathroom and hallway.  Can I replace the 20 amp breaker with a 15 amp breaker, and then use 14-2 cable to connect the bathroom and hall lighting?  I do not know if the present older cable is 12 or 14.  I assume it is 12 since it has been tied into this 20 amp breaker before I bought the house.   



  Thank you to all who help. 
      

Live in California...  Pool and backyard remodel



Running a new 100Amp line from the main electrical house box that is 200amp to the new Hayward ProLogic Pool sub panel for the pool equipment. Is that #2 wire or #4?



The pool installers are telling me that they need 50 amps for the 3 pumps, 2 pool lights and gas heater that I have. 



The reason that I'm running 100amps to the sub panel and only using 50amps for the pool is because there is electrical going to the overhang and backyard that can be controlled by a remote that talks to the ProLogic sub panel.



I have a overhang/BBQ area that has 17Amps for the refer and BBQ, a water feature which is about 15-20 amps, 2 ceiling fans for the overhang, low-voltage lights for the overhang, low-voltage landscaping lights for the backyard only. I think that is about it.



Inspector is telling me that I need a GFCI at the sub panel. Is this a 100amp GFCI prior to the sub panel being wired? Or does each piece of equipment need a GFCI?



I am having a licensed electrical contractor do this, but I'm just trying to do my homework because some of them are not knowledgeable about pool wiring... 

(BTW, I had a licensed contractor out yesterday, to give me a bid and he said that they didn't make a 100amp GFCI, which of course I did see on the internet, not using him!!)