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Conduit Questions In Shed Wiring

Hi guys. I'm Dan, and I'm in Knoxville, TN. I know running power to a shed is a very common topic here. I've been doing tons of reading and feel pretty comfortable with the requirements, but I have two questions I haven't been able to find a clear answer to.

First, my situation: I'm having a 10x16 shed built in my backyard, to be used primarily as a woodshop. I need more than a single circuit, so I know I need a subpanel and two grounding rods at least 6' apart, bonded to the subpanel with #6 bare copper wire.

My house has 200 amp service, and the main panel is in the garage at the opposite corner of the house from where the shed will go, so it would be pretty inconvenient to run a feeder from, there. But there's an existing 100 amp subpanel in the basement, presumably installed when the previous owner finished the basement. I'll be running a 60 amp feeder from that subpanel to the shed.

My total run will be something like 75', so I'm running #6 THWN for the two hots and neutral, and #10 THWN for the ground. I plan to bury it in 1.25" schedule 40 PVC, buried 18" deep.

My first question relates to how I need to run the wire when it's not underground. The basement is finished with a drop ceiling, so I plan to run the feeder across the drop ceiling, out of the house, down to the ground (it's a walk-out basement), then underground the 26' to the shed. I assume it still needs to be in conduit for at least the part that runs up the wall of the house. But what about inside, when it runs through the drop ceiling to the panel? Does it need to be in conduit for the whole run? Or would I just staple the four wires to the joists or something?

The other question relates to the trench. I've got a rain gutter downspout that discharges right at where the shed will soon be, so I'm running a 40' length of 4" PVC to pipe that water past the shed. It will be buried just about 6-12", just enough to run under the shed. Can I run the power conduit in the same trench (obviously, deeper)? Presumably I'd dig the 18" trench to the shed, lay the schedule 40, then add a few inches of dirt to bring it up to about 12" deep, and extend the trench past the shed at that depth, then lay the 4" drain pipe and backfill. Or do I need to dig two separate trenches? Is there a rule about how far apart they need to be if so?

If anyone sees any other flaws or concerns with my plan, please do speak up, I want to do this right. Thanks!

Dan

Running Power Out To Shed Have Questons

I know this has been done to death but, just want to make sure that I headed in the right direction. O.K. I'm building a 12x16 shed and need to know what size wire to use. I plan on having lights, saws, mini fridge, deep freeze, air compressor and maybe a small a/c unit in the summer. I plan on having everything on different circuits like lights on 15A, fridge and freezer on 20A, have plugs on bench on 20A, air compressor on 20A, and mini a/c on 20A. I plan on using romex 14/2 for 15A and 12/2 for 20A. With sub panel http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051 or something like it. My shed is about 30' from the meter loop. So, what size wire do I use from the meter loop 6/2????? Do I need to use a ground rod at the shed? Thanks for looken!!!!!

Running Power To Detached Shed ...

First off, I have read a majority of the posts concerning this subject and they have been very helpful and answered many questions, but I still have a few.

I am wanting to run power to a detached shed that is around 100 feet from the house. However, due to the location of my main panel and the easiest route to run the power, I am looking at running cable about 270 feet. I measured it out to exactly 263 feet, but figured it would be best to go longer. I am wanting to run at least 60 amps to the shed, as I won't be using it for nothing more then power outlets (basic power tools) and lights. Here are my questions:

1) What cable would be best for such a long distance run?

2) Would a 60 amp subpanel be sufficient for this job. I am looking at only 4 circuits: 1 for internal outlets, 1 for lighting, 1 for motion sensor light outside and 1 for external outlet. I am looking at the following panel:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051

I have seen some marked 70 amp and wondering if they make a difference:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051

3) Also, I will be installing a 30 amp RV connector circuit from my main panel to the where I park my Camper Trailer, which is a run of about 75 feet. What would be the best cable for this sort of run under ground? Can I run both cable together in the same conduit until I junction if off to where I will be installing the plug for the camper?

4) Would the following be the circuit breakers to use:

60 amp - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

30 amp - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

I think that is it for now. Thanks in advance for all your help!!

Exterior Gfi Problem

I am installing a new shed and redirecting an existing electrical line from an old shed to the new shed. There is a GFI receptical (non-outlet type) in a weather-proof metal box attached to the house that is fed by a dedicated line from the circuit breaker box.

I never paid much attention to why the lighting in the old shed never worked until I decided on getting a new shed. This weekend I went out with my multimeter to test the line and load sides of the GFI recepticle and measured only about 12 volts on both sides. (I did test the multimeter on some inside outlets and measured 120 volts).

I tried many times to reset the GFI without success.

Is the GFI bad? Is it normal for a bad GFI to measure such low voltage on both the line and load sides?

Thanks for your help.

Wiring A Shed Light & Internal Power

I raised a shed and disconnected the wiring from the main building to the shed. Now it's a month later and it's time to hook the power back up. From the main building I have power into the shed with a white, black, red and copper wire. Originally the power went into the outside light fixture and then off of that it went to another light and two outlets. The original confiruation allowed of us to turn the shed's outside light on and off, from a switch inside the main building. With the power off to the light, we still had power to the outlets and internal light. The outside light fixture has black and white wires. The wire to the internal light and the outlets has a black, white, and copper wire. So how do I wire this so that the main building switch can control the outside light on the shed, while still having power to the internal light and outlets, regardless of the switch being on or off? (I wired the internal blacks and whites all together, which just ended up with the outside light always being on.)

Existing Outdoor Conduit

I have 2" grey pvc conduit running from my basement underneath a patio and terminating vertically from the ground a few feet past the edge of the patio (in the dirt). I want to install an outlet on the stone wall at the edge of this patio. I do not know how to properly return the wire from that open 2" vertical conduit back to the wall a few feet away. I assume I need a junction box on the existing conduit, but can't find one with a 2" inlet. I would like to keep the connections buried if possible, return with a smaller conduit to the wall and up to a mounted outlet box (weatherproof). Any suggestions about how to manage the conduit connections from the vertical pipe?

Tom

Compressor Causes Power Drain

I built a shed and wired it.

I used #8 direct burial from the house to the shed.

I have a breaker in the house 15 amp for just my compressor.

When i run the compressor i seems to drain power from everything else,

ex: all light in the hose fad, my filter on the fish tank stops.

Could some one help me figure this out and put a stop to it.

Thanks Dak

Electrical Run To New Pool House

We are in the process of redoing the area around our pool. As part of this we are adding a pool house and hot tub (separate from pool).

I have a couple Elecrtical Contractors coming out this weekend to price/put together a plan. Along with talking to several indivuals, I've been lurking around reading and trying to gather info but feel the need to have as much info available prior to getting these estimates and plans. Please excuse any incorrect verbage i might use and appreciate any corrections to my terminoligy

So this is what i have

The pool house is approx 100 ft from the house.

It will have a few and outlets for blenders, minifridge, tv etc

the pool equipement consites of a pump, heater and a sand filter. The pump and current heater run off standard 110 lines (however if i upgrade this I dont know if the new one will require a 220 line

The pool light seems to run off a standard line as well

The hottub requires a 220 40amp line

There will be landscaping lighting as well as 2 more outlets for accesories

The original setup prior to last year had what looks like 6 or 8 guage (3 wire) directly buried about 6-8 inches under ground. it was running what look to be two 20amp circuits from the main panel inside the house. This wire got split to two separate outlets near the pool. One went directly to the pool equipment and on directy to the pool light switch and some landscaping ighting.

With all the enhancements we are making i'm wondering what the best approach will be.

I assume a sub panel in the pool house that has one "main breaker" and has its own ground. Then one run to the pool equipment and one run to the hottub and a couple runs to the accesories i mentioned.

I have seen several replies on here where individuals talk about "if they were doing the job this is how they would do it". Id be interested in some responses

What type of wire would be best to get it to the pool house

Does it run right from the main panel in the house?

Does direct burial make sense or shold i put it in conduit? I'm already digging a trench three feet deep for water and RG6 (which will be pushed thru conduit)

Any question i should make sure i ask the contractors?

Thanks in advance for any input

Hot Water & Cook Top Wiring Questions

Hello All,

I'm about to "re-locate" some existing breakers and wires into a subpanel and have a few questions.

1) My existing hot water heater is wired with 2 conductor w/ground wiring (30 amp, #10 wire). Is this still Code compliant or do you have to have 3 conductor now as with dryers?

My existing dryer also has 2 conductor w/ground wiring (installed in 1999).

If I relocated it or the hot water wires/breakers to my new subpanel will they require me to upgrade to current code (3 conductor, if applicable)? The subpanel will attach to the Main Load Center which is where those breakers/wires are currently attached.

Main question is will I be grandfathered with existing wiring in only relocating the breakers/wires to subpanel? I'm not relocating the appliances or recepticles themselves.

2) I have 3 conductor w/ground wires for my cook top. It only requires 2 conducter w/ground however. They wired the ground/neutrals together but has flexible metal conduit running to the cook top itself. Should I remove the ground and bond it to the metal conduit?

Thanks, Ralph

Pump On Timer With Switch Override

HI all,

I have a rain barrel system with a pump (110v) and I ran a 3way switch to my patio and one by the pump (in a shed). My wife now wants the pump on a timer (to water the garden).

So...I could just add a timer to the switched outlet, but I want to be able to override the timer with the switch (at the patio or shed), without interfering with the pump timer operation.

I've drawn up a diagram showing my proposed setup.

Question: can I rig up the pump with two power cords and plug one into the timed outlet and one into the switched outlet and not burn down my shed in the process?

Subpanel Vs. Individual Runs

I want to set up a hobby woodworking shop in my garage. I was going to run from the panel maybe four or five 12/2's to accommodate lighting, power tools, dust collection, etc. or should I put a subpanel 60 to 100 amp? The main panel is on an outside wall on one side of the house and the garage is on the opposite side of the house. The distance from the panel to the entry into the garage is about 50 ft. I would be pulling wire- a straight run- through a ceiling chase that runs the length of the house. No basement.