Hooking Up Gas Fireplace

Is lowse electric fireplace reduce total heating costs better than home depot? Thanks



lowse 4600 BTU Electric Fireplace with Remote

Zone heating will help reduce total heating costs

No venting required

Electric fireplaces plug into a standard electrical outlet

Can be used with or without heat

and
Home Depot Electric Fireplace plugs into a standard 110-volt outlet and has a classic wood finish. It offers the cozy ambience of a real fireplace without the maintenance or venting requirements. This fireplace features a freestanding design and generates up to 4,600 BTU/hr heat output for rooms up to 1000 sq. ft

Plugs into any standard 110-volt electric outlet

up to 4600 BTU hr heat output for rooms up to 1,000 sq ft

Adjustable thermostatic control

Freestanding
      

I've the electric fireplace without the remote control. Is any fireplace remote?
      

Hello everyone,I have a question about a forklift battery charger i bought. Ok,its an exide forklift battery charger 36 volts. It weighs a ton so i am having to run a 25 foot extension cord to it. My question is,my 220 wall outlet has three holes so i went to lowes and made a 220 extension cord. Now i get to the ac cable coming out of the charger that hooks to the extension cord(plug was cut off),there are 4 wires coming out of the cable green,white,red, and black......the guy at lowes said i could buy a 3 prong plug for it to plug into the female end of the extension cord because one of the 4 wires is probably neutral and i wouldnt have to hook up but the green,white and either the red or black.....is he right? Inside the charger the red,white and black all go to big fuses and green to ground. Also above the fuses it says "factory set to 480 volts ac". I guess my question is,will this charger only work using a 4 prong wall outlet(mine only has 3) and with 4 prong plug hooked to cable coming out of the charger itself or is the guy at lowes right in saying that only the red OR black wire has to be used? Sorry if this is confusing but ive searched and searched online for 3 days and havent found anything. Thanks in advance for any help-Kevin
      

I recently switched over from AT&T phone/cable/Internet service to Cablevision. 



The problem with both services is the coax cable coming through a hole in the wall from outside and then a phone line from their modem stapled to the floor board and tied into the phone outlet inside.  Then there's my phone lines, the coax cable to the TV... It's a disgusting mess.



I'd like to install a combination phone line and cable outlet in the wall and get rid of as much loose wiring as possible.  The phone line would come through the same area as the cable and I'd wire it on the other end to the main box outside the house.



I have no experience with this so my question is can I take the phone line from the Cablevision modem and simply plug it into the outlet and get all the phones in the house to work or does it have to be hard wired or piggybacked inside the outlet?
      

I have a 50 foot hdmi cable that is hooked to my TV, run through my wall to my basement then over and upto a closet where the cable is hooked to my surround sound. Unfortunately my basement ceiling is finished in drywall and there is no access to replace the cord. To make a long story short a cable TV provider came to my house to change out a box and broke the prongs on the hdmi cable. My question is, can HDMI ends be spliced or replaced somehow without replacing the whole cable.
      

Hey guys, I am looking to find out what kind of cable this is.







Some details



It looks to me like some kind of. 



3 Conductor surface shielded Cable



The outside is a black shield



It has 3 wires: red, gold green that were twisted together and have some kind of coating on them, not rubber but a color coating on them.



Its a verrrrrrry thin cable and the wires are individually twisted with about 8 strands and then the 3 twisted and then the outside.



Anyone have by any chance of this laying around or know what this kind is?
      

Greetings all.



This is my first post here, I hope it goes well.



My name is Joe and I have searched Google. and this forum for my answer but have not been able to find a definitive answer to my question.  I have seen many replies talking about getting a tone generator or a line tracer but my experience is that tone generators are for Data and phone cables rather than electrical cables and the line tracers I've found online all seem to be about tracing the line back to the breaker panel so without knowing more I'm hesitant to purchase a line tracer in case it cannot do what I want.

My dilemma is very likely very simple to anyone with electrical experience so I hope it's not too trivial for this crowd.

I have recently purchased a house that is over 120 years old and have a motion sensor light on the porch that is supposedly connected to a switch inside but does not turn on.  I've opened the wall plate and used a voltage indicating pen to see where the electricity is.  In this case there are two light switches, one that has lines that have been spliced and another that supposedly leads to the porch light according to a long time tenant in that unit.  It all looks like a bit of a mess and the connections don't make sense.  In this scenario the black cables have the electricity and the white cables complete the circuit.  The switch to the porch light has a black cable coming from the top of the box going to the switch and a white cable connected to the other screw that comes from splitting the white cable from the other switch.  What I would like to do is know which cables in that wall box correspond to the cables to the porch light.  Can anyone give me an idea what I should do?

Do I need something like the Amprobe advanced wire tracer (http://www.professionalequipment.com...0/wire-tracer/) and can it do what I need, or is there something simpler I can do?

All help is appreciated.

Thanks



Joe
      

I'm installing a 2.8kW fan assisted oven (no hob) I done some cable sizing calculations and voltage drop calculations and added 50% overload in aswell and I found I could use a 2.5mm cable to supply it. I also found I could use a 20A MCB, a friend said that he would use a 32A to be safe but didnt give me any other reasons why? Is this better or would it stop it from tripping under fault conditions? Is it also acceptable to use a 20A double pole switch to isolate it?



Thanks for any feed back
      

Now I have a 20 amp breaker at the circuit box that has older two wire, ie black and white no ground.  This cable looks to be in good shape.  This services several overhead lights in bedrooms.  I need to tie into this to create overhead lights in the bathroom and hallway.  Can I replace the 20 amp breaker with a 15 amp breaker, and then use 14-2 cable to connect the bathroom and hall lighting?  I do not know if the present older cable is 12 or 14.  I assume it is 12 since it has been tied into this 20 amp breaker before I bought the house.   



  Thank you to all who help. 
      

QUESTION:  can I run (2) 14-2 romex wires in (1) 3/4 BX Armored cable?



SETUP: I am finishing my basement and a few main floor circuits are intermingled with the basement lights and outlets.  In finishing the basement, all basement electrical will be on its own circuit. Therefore, I need to rewire some main floor items.



For instance, the main floor living room outlets go through the den area below in the basement. The 3/4 BX cable goes through the ceiling to the outlets.



PLAN:  I plan to cut the armored cable shortly after it comes out of the ceiling (main floor floor) and just connect the first floor outlets in a series using the proper bushing and BX cable ends. I will strap the BX cable ends down and the romex as soon as it comes out.



The electrical inspector already gave me thumbs up on doing this for the electric oven and cooktop (bigger wires of course).



I searched and couldn't find anything to this specific question.



Any input?



B